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dilluns, 13 d’octubre de 2008

Mas Guasch al Puntal de l'Albarda Castellana

Lluny de les zones d'escaldes més comodes i conegudes n'hi ha d'altres que també mereixen ser visitades. Ens limitem moltes vegades a enfilar-nos al primer pany de paret que ens sembla atractiu sense plantejar-nos que hi ha darrera aquell esperó o aquella carena que ens barra la vista i no és fins que arribem al cim i descobrim un nou horitzó que ens plantejem nous projectes més lluny i més exotics. Moltes vegades aquests nous projecte no passes d'aixó, de projectes, i una setmana i un altra ens limitem a visitar les zones conegudes fugint de la incertesa del desconegut. Per sort, els escaladors tenim una curiositat molt desenvolupada que ens empeny a explorar nous racons d'aquesta tan diversa terra en un afany de compendre millor les interioritats de la experiencia de l'escalada i aixó fa que algunes vegades vulguem sortir dels camins més trillats i volguem coneixer aquella paret, esperó o cim que no coneixiem i que una vegada varem veure a l'acabar una via, descobrint que el món no s'acaba darrera la paret que acabavem d'escalar.
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Molts cops, arribant al cim del Gorro Frigi ens hem explaiat amb la vista que s'obre a la nostra esquena, identificant vies que ja em fet o d'altres que estan esperant la nostra visita i que creiem que algun dia farem. Malauradament la llunyania o la incertesa ens fan desistir d'aquestes projectes apostant per opcions més favorables. Hi ha un dia, però, que aquesta ansia de seguretat es veu superada per una curiositat que ho pot tot. Aquests dies son els més propicis per empendre projectes que requereixin una gran dosi d'optimisme i motivació.
Sense arribar a aquests extrems d'optimisme i motivació, aquest dissabte ens varem plantjar amb en Xevi d'anar a descobrir una agulla que resta lluny de les zones habituals pero que guarda grans classiques que bé mereixen una visita: el Puntal de l'Albarda Castellana per la via Mas Guasch.
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Es una via que coneixia de feia molt de temps pero que mai m'havia despertat prou la curiositat com per decidir-me a anar a fer-li una visita. Va ser gracies a la insistencia d'en Xevi que ens varem animar a anar-hi i varem poder descobrir una gran classica d'una bellesa propia de les vies reconegudes amb aquest adjectiu. La via recorre un altiu esperó per un intermitent i a vegades indefinit diedre que el ratlla en tota la seva longitud i que li dona una logica aplastant. Recentment ha estat reequipada amb parabolts inox però sabent mantenir el regust que dona els molts anys d'acumulació d'oxid a les assegurances originals. Així, entremig de les excelents assegurances podem trobar encara restes dels burils casolans originals que ens permeten rememorar epoques on la escalada era cosa "d'homes" (permeteu-me l'expresió)pero sense deixar que la escalada de la via es converteixi en una perillosa empresa, havent de portar alguns friends petits i mitjans per complementar l'equipament. Nosaltres a més i com ja és habitual varem portar també el petit joc de Tricams que ens va permetre un assegurament complementari molt adient. Amb cinc llargs de recorregut més un de tramit per arribar al cim del Puntal, varem disfrutar de una gran via practicament tota en lliure amb dificultats de V/V+ amb algun pas puntual d'artificial que en cap cas fa deslluïr la bellesa de l'escalada.
Ens capfiquem quan, en arribar al peu de via, ens trobem, desilusionats, que una altra cordada ha tingut el mateix pensament que nosaltres i ens ha pispat la prioritat en l'escalada de la via. Aquest dia varem pensar, després de una dificil i emboscada aproximació, que dificilment hi hauria ningú, ja no a la via, sinó en alguns centenars de metres a la rodona. Que equivocats que estavem quan a l'arribar al peu de via ens trobem sorpresos que una altra cordada havia tingut la mateixa idea que nosaltres per aquell dia. Al final i contrariament a tota expectativa varem poder disfrutar de una magnifica jornada amb dos companys del Bages, en Salva i en Masfi de Sant Fruitós i Avinyó respectivament, que varen compartir amb nosaltres aquesta gloriosa escalada.
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